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Materials and equipment: 2 x l mt by 1.2 mts. Hardiboard (Bunnings) Overhead projector A4 overhead transparency sheets and markers Permanent Black Marker A few recycled corks Cutter (for cork) Supertac glue Black tiles for outlines Coloured tiles (to fill in images and background) Tile Cutter Tile Nipper Protective glasses Hammer Newspaper and plastic bags Disposable rubber gloves Tile adhesive Pop sticks Grout Handy Grouter Masks Recycle plastic lids (for glue) Old bucket (for mixing grout) Old stick (for mixing grout) Old spoon Sponge Rags Silicon Tile protector Handy Hints: If you choose to use donated tiles it will result in a very uneven surface because each tile is of a different thickness. This will make grouting extremely difficult and lengthy. Also, floor tiles are very difficult to cut or break. Purchased tiles of the same thickness is recommended for this project. Smaller 2 cm sq. glass tiles may be used for the whole project. If used in conjunction with the larger tiles to provide variety or interest, they need to be mounted on extra glue for height. Quantities (for this project the following was used): one pair of safety eye goggles per student, one pair tile nipper between two students, 4 Handy Grouter and 8 kg black grout per panel. Use pop sticks and recycle lids for the glue. The glue may be returned to the glue container at lunch time and reused and the sticks and lids can be thrown out at the end of each day. For health and safety, students should use safety glasses when cutting, clipping or hammering tiles; a mask when working with dry grout (as it is a fine powder) and gloves when working with wet grout. Amount of glue on each tile piece depends on the size of the tile. However, a small lump in the middle of the back will allow it to hold. Too much glue will “squish” out of the sides and make grouting more difficult. The panels are attached to a the wall with Dymo bolts. 6 were used for each panel. A slice of cork is stuck on to the panel in the place where the bolts will go through to prevent tiles from breaking in the drilling process. Step l : Size of panels The Hardiboard is weather proof on the blue side so this side should be facing the wall as the tiles will protect the front. The board is sold in the above mentioned dimensions so the decision was made to cut each panel in half to create 4 panels: one to represent each theme. The cutting was undertaken by a parent using an electric saw. Also another reason for working with smaller panels is that once the boards are covered in tiles they are very heavy to manoeuvre. Step 2: Transferring students’ art works on to boards. Use a ruler and draw a 2 cm border around each panel. Then trace selected artworks on to an overhead transparency. Place the board in front of the overhead projector and transfer the images from the transparency sheet on to the board using a permanent marker. Each image may be enlarged or reduced in size to suit the dimensions of the board or the overall scheme. This is done by moving the overhead projector away from or nearer to the board. Note: if an image is too small and detailed it may be lost in the tiling process. Step 3: Outlining the panels and preparing panels for bolting. Place the board on to a flat surface for the mosaic process. Placement should allow students to move around the panel with ease. Use a tile cutter to cut black tiles in squares or rectangles for the edges of each panel (we chose to cut each tile into 4 even lengths and clipped each length in to three pieces). Stick each piece of tile down with tile glue. Once edges have been completed, glue six slices of cork (the same height as the tiles) in the 4 corners and middle of the top and bottom of each panel with Supertac glue. Then outline the images with black tiles (tiles were cut in 8 lengths and then nipped to become small rectangles for this section). Step 4: Filling in the Images with Colour. Students now select coloured tiles for filling in the images. To break tiles, simply place tile on a mound of newspaper, cover with a plastic bag and hammer. If necessary use a tile nipper to achieve desired shape by snipping off corners and rounding shapes. Place sections of tiles down on the panels before gluing to ensure the best shapes and designs are achieved. Adhesive dries within 72 hours. Stand panels up before grouting to ensure all pieces of tiles are intact. Step 5: Grouting. 1.Mix grout and water to the consistency of tooth paste (instructions on bag). Spoon the grout on to the flat panel, starting from the middle and working out. Use Handy Grouter to push grout into tunnels between tiles and push out air bubbles. Use this tool to also remove large amounts of excess grout from surface of tiles. At this stage it will be impossible to see the artworks as they will be completely covered in grout. 2.Now start the process of uncovering tiles under the layer of excess grout; this is achieved by gently rubbing each tile with the flat end of a pop stick (apply gentle pressure by putting index finger on flat end of the stick). Work with the wet grout immediately because if allowed to dry over night it will be too hard to remove. Use dustpan and brush to remove the grout which is being rubbed off. Wet some sponges and clean the tiles. Polish with dry rags. Apply silicon to edges of panel to provide added protection. Spray with tile protector (available from tile shop). Bolt to wall by drilling through corks and attaching Dymo bolts.
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Copyright 2006 Zart Art |