After reading Complex Cloth by Jane Dunnewold I wanted to use some of the ideas in her book with students - that is, dyeing some fabric and then working on the surface in a variety of ways.
Helen Beresford, a textile artist who specializes in appliqué and machine embroidery was assigned to work with me. Our common knowledge of dyeing seemed the perfect opportunity to create some complex textiles with our students.
The topic for the term was ‘The Sea’ and this would provide plenty of scope for adding layers to dyed fabric. We worked with twenty-six students from grade 5/6. The piece of work produced had to include the skills, techniques and processes of dyeing, printing, sewing and embellishing.

Lesson 1 -Drawing a design for a lino block
A discussion of the theme and the sorts of things that would be suitable for a design (not fine lines as they would be difficult to carve) took place. Students had to develop three or four designs (size 10cm x 15cm). Books were available for reference and inspiration.

Lesson 2 - Carving the lino block.
Step 1 - Each student chose a design and then either drew that design onto the lino or transferred it using carbon paper.
Step 2 - The lino was ironed on the wrong side to make it easier to carve.
Step 3 - Carving: (the rules - always carve away from the body with your hand steadying the lino at the base. Turn your lino around as you carve - like paper is turned when you cut something out.)
Safety issues were emphasized - some students had never used an iron or carving tools.

Lesson 3 - Preparing the fabric for the dye pot
Each student was given a piece of calico 48cm x 60cm.
Resist dye techniques were discussed. Examples of different techniques were shown: using rubber bands, making spider webs with string, clamping with blocks of wood, plaiting, wrapping around a pole and then wrapping with string. Experimenting was encouraged.

Lesson 4 - Dyeing the fabric
Procion Dyes were used because they work well in cold water. The colours chosen were: aqua, marine blue and yellow.
We discussed the combinations of blues and yellows depending on which dye bath the fabric went into first. Because of time limits, the salt, soda ash and dye were measured out ready to be mixed into a dye bath. Fabrics were left in dye baths for 15 to 20 minutes.
Students loved dyeing and did interesting things - I had pictured blues and yellows to give greens for the sea, but they also did blue on blue and it looks great.

Lesson 5 - Experimenting with printing on fabric
The students found it hard to get a ‘clean’ print so we practised using Chromacryl paint mixed with textile medium and Permaset ink. All sorts of results were achieved.
In the end we decided that they could use the combination they preferred to print on their dyed fabric. The option of printing on a separate piece of fabric and attaching it to the dyed fabric was added, as some students did not want to take the risk of messing up their original fabric.

Lessons 6, 7, 8 - Printing and Embellishment of dyed fabric.
At this stage I read the book One Less Fish by Kim Michelle Toft and Allan Sheather. I thought that perhaps some of the students might like to take the project one step further.
We offered as many forms of embellishment as we could think of - embroidery stitches (using chenille needles - sharp points/big eyes), simple outlining of designs, attaching fabrics using double-sided fusible webbing, attaching beads and threads. The textile artist was able to demonstrate embroidery stitches and talk about the way she works. Sourcing materials was also encouraged.
Working with another adult was enjoyable for me and made it possible to work more closely with the students. The results - surprising!

Copyright 2004 Zart Art & Zart Education Service